October 31, 2008
The best way to re-fill an ink cartridge is to buy an ink re-filling kit. This can be bought from any online store selling ink cartridges. Along with this kit you would be provided with the necessary tools along with a set of instructions on how to go about filling-the-empty-ink-cartridge.
Here are a few simple instructions that could be followed to refill your cartridge and it’s not very complicated.
1. Draw the ink of any one colour with the help of the syringe provided in the re-fill kit. Ideally, this should be done over the sink. This is to make sure that even if some of it spills over no documents, clothes etc. gets ruined. The amount of ink each printer holds usually varies depending upon its manufacturers. For Example, in most Epson printers the black cartridge holds about 17ml of ink and the colour cartridges hold approximately 8ml. Please refer to the instructions on your refill kit to check how much ink should be injected into the cartridge.
2. A small hole needs to be made on top of the cartridge (Could be done with a ball point pen), one for each colour chamber. The hole should be at the top of the cartridge near the label. The needle should be pushed into the hole and the ink injected slowly. If the ink is not injected slowly, it could result in foaming and air bubbles could be formed. If this happens, the re-filled cartridge might not be able to print.
Caution: If this happens, hold the cartridge over a waste paper basket upside down and swing upwards and stop suddenly. This could rectify the problem. If it doesn’t then you could clean the ink heads with cleaner or try soaking the heads. This could remove any dry ink that is clogging the ink heads and allow the ink to flow freely again.
3. The re-fill holes need not be sealed, as there are already breather holes on top of the cartridge.
4. Any ink that is left over in the syringe can be returned to the bottle. The syringe needs to be cleaned with water and dried properly before using it for another colour. It might be handy to use different syringes for different colours.
5. Once the refilled cartridge is placed back in the printer, run the cleaning cycle 1 to 3 times. If there is any gap in printing, the cycle could be run a few more times till the problem is rectified.
Before placing the refilled cartridge back into the printer, you could hold it upside down just to make sure ink is not dripping out of the sponge.
Here are a few things that must be kept in mind before re-filling a cartridge
1. The cartridge needs to be refilled before it is completely empty. If this is not done, the cartridge can dry out completely and get clogged.
2. It might be a good idea to place the refilled cartridge into the printer and leave it alone overnight so that the pressure in the cartridge can stabilize.
3. While making the holes at the top of the cartridge, to inject ink, please make sure you do not hit it too hard or it might crack open the cartridge and make it worthless. It might also make a hairline crack and allow some air in, which in turn would dry the ink out prematurely.
4. Some of the newer models of printers have a green chip in their cartridges. Looking at the cartridge closely one can spot this chip. They are usually known as “Intellidge” cartridges. The chip keeps track of the ink levels in the cartridge and notifies the computer when the ink levels are low. A resetting chip can be used to reset the memory on the chip. With the help of this chip, the printer recognizes the cartridge as being full and allows the refilled cartridge to print.
A refill kit is considerably cheaper than a new cartridge and obviously promises more than just one re-fill. It is therefore, easier on the pocket, keeps us from adding more useless plastic to the environment and increases the life of a cartridge.
A re-fill kit typically contains:
1. Bottles of Ink
2. A bottle of cleaning solution
3. A 2 part syringe
4. A users manual
Something to look out for before buying refilled cartridges
There are some cartridges sold with the “Single Use Only” tag. It is illegal to refill these cartridges with any other ink. This is usually found in Lexmark cartridges. If these cartridges are sent for refilling or refilled cartridges are bought, technically one could face legal charges for doing so. The cartridges that are not marked “Single Use Only” usually come at a higher price.
For such cartridges Lexmark offers a 20% reduction in price if the customer agrees to send the cartridges back to Lexmark.
This does not mean that using refilled cartridges is illegal in any way. All one needs to watch out for is whether the maker has prevented a third party refilling for their own cartridges. This can be understood easily by looking out for any labels such as “Single Use Only”. If there is no such obvious label, it is absolutely all right to go ahead with refilling the empty ink cartridges.
John Sollars is the managing director of Solar Electronics, which are both ink and pc peripheral suppliers based in Shropshire, UK. To access a comprehensive online shop of original and re-manufactured ink cartridges please visit http://www.mega-office.co.uk
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Here are your ink and or toner cartridge types and what they mean exactly.
OEM:
Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) is produced by the original manufacturer. Guaranteed to be free from defect in material and workmanship during its lifetime.
Compatible:
Manufactured to the original manufacturer’s specification by other manufacturers. Most resellers guarantee to be free from defect in material and workmanship during its warranty or lifetime.
OEMC:
OEM-Compatible cartridges are manufactured to meet or exceed OEM performance. All drums and working parts are new. Guaranteed to be free from defect in material and workmanship during its lifetime.
Remanufactured:
Original products disassembled and rebuilt with new parts if needed. Guaranteed to be free from defect in material and workmanship during its lifetime.
Refill Kit:
This is a refill kit that is designed to refill your OEM inkjet cartridge multiple times for significant savings. The kits include all tools required, step by step instructions and of course the specific inks for your printer’s cartridge(s).
Generic:
These are basically cartridges that contain little or no chemicals in there ink cartridges. They are water down and diluted with non-absorbent ink. You will find these cartridges mostly imported from overseas or from a domestic private company who are refilling cartridges as part of their business.
*Note: This is very important for you to remember about ink and toner. OEM (original equipment manufacturer) toner cartridges contain both new and used parts.
It matters how many times your current supplier changes the parts after they have been used several times before wearing and tearing of that specific part.
You’re actually paying for is the retail box itself because of the marketing and branding purposes that OEM (original equipment manufacturer) manufacturers spend millions of dollars on so they can brand you into buying their product from the retail store.
You end up spending more money than you should at one of them stores, it’s crazy and in my eyes, it’s unfair. So, don’t be fooled from by the genuine product that you see, it may be a reman after all. You just never know.
In description of, Joseph Mercado is known as The Internet Marketing Tyrant. He specializes in the consumable market involving studies on inkjet cartridges; http://www.InkSecrets.com
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October 30, 2008
SPI stands for “Serial to Peripheral Interface”, and it is a hardware and firmware communications protocol developed by Motorola and later adopted by everybody. The SPI Bus is used only on the PCB. I am certain some of you will ask: “Why is the SPI Bus used only on the PCB? What prevents us from using it outside the PCB area?” The SPI Bus was specially designed to exchange data between various IC chips, at very high speeds; say, at 180 MHz or even more. Due to this high-speed aspect, the Bus lines cannot be too long, because their reactance increases too much, and the Bus becomes unusable. However, if you want, you could use the SPI Bus outside the PCB at low speeds, but this is not quite practical–the SPI Bus requires 3 or 4 communications lines, which are a bit too many, when compared to 1 or 2 lines usually needed to communicate, efficiently, with field devices located outside the PCB.
Anyway, on the PCB the SPI Bus is very good, because we can practically attach to the Bus as many ICs (or devices) as we want. Please excuse me for not providing a picture of the SPI Bus, but rest assured you do not need one: the SPI Bus is so simple that you will understand everything in words.
The next question is: “Why is this SPI Bus particularly useful?” Besides from exchanging data between various IC chips, the SPI Bus is a method of multiplying microcontroller’s pins. In other words, if you have a tiny 8 pins microcontroller, you could control with that little monster few hundreds of digital Inputs and Outputs. This is impressive, and I am certain many doubt my words. Let’s explain this.
The SPI Bus contains three lines, and they can be on any general I/O controller pins. These Bus lines are: Clock, Data-In, and Data-Out. In addition, each IC connected to the SPI Bus needs an individual Enable line. Things work like this: suppose we have four devices, A, B, C, and D; all of them are wired to the SPI Bus lines, and the Bus itself is wired to seven controller pins–this is 3 Bus lines plus the 4 Enable ones. When we want to send a message to device C, we enable its Enable line first, then we send the message serially, one bit at a time. In the same time devices A, B, and D do exactly nothing, because they are not enabled.
The beauty with the SPI Bus is, it is Synchronous, meaning, when the controller sends the message to one IC, it is also able to receive data from that IC, in the same time. This particular aspect of the SPI protocol is particularly well suited for microcontroller-to-microcontroller communications.
Now, we have seen a small 8 pins microcontroller can control 4 devices (ICs) using 7 pins. Taking into account one device of type A, B, C, or D could have eight or even sixteen I/O ports, this is still far from the hundreds Inputs and Outputs I promised to you. The next beautiful thing about the SPI Bus is: one device IC can be serialized with many more of the same type! For example, we could have B1, B2, B3, B4, B5, and so on. All ICs of type B# are serialized together, and they require only 4 microcontroller pins to make them work; the Enable line is common to all of them. Next, we can use each device of type A, B, C, and D as a group of tens similar ICs.
The enabling speed of each I/O port on the SPI Bus it is slower, when multiplying microcontroller’s pins, but always take into account I/O field devices don’t necessarily need speeds of, say 1000 ON/OFF activations per second each, simply because most of them cannot handle that speed. However, there are few, very smart firmware techniques like the “barrel-shift” type of functions, which allows us to maintain high-speed messaging on the SPI Bus, even if we have hundreds of I/Os. In the same time, the “barrel-shift” functions allow for better time management inside microcontroller, so that it has more time to execute other tasks–makes sense to me! To conclude, I believe it is clear now we can, indeed, build hundreds of efficient I/O lines on a small 8 pins controller.
Further from this general presentation of the SPI Bus, you should be aware almost all ICs implement the SPI protocol in a particular way. For detailed and practical applications I suggest you visit my home site at Corollary Theorems. There you are going to discover a good tutorial book about working with hardware, firmware–including the “barrel-shift” type of functions–and software design, in general, and about few nice and practical implementations of the SPI Bus in particular.
Many microcontrollers have built-in SPI Bus hardware modules, but I was never interested too much about using them. What I do, I always design–on the PCB and for one microcontroller–one, two or more custom SPI Busses, because my custom implementations are far more flexible. Besides, practical implementation of a custom SPI Bus, both in hardware and in firmware, is really simple–trust me with this one!
O G POPA is Professional Engineer in BC, Canada. His home site is Corollary Theorems at http://www.corollarytheorems.com
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October 29, 2008
Touch screen monitor is a type of display screen that has a touch-sensitive transparent panel covering the screen. Instead of using a pointing device such as a mouse or light pen, you can use your finger to point directly to objects on the screen.
The benefits of such technology are obvious. Rather than lugging along extra input devices such as a mouse or a keyboard, the user need only his finger to manipulate the chosen device. But it’s not just mobile devices that benefit from this type of input. All kinds of devices can be equipped, including TV and computer monitors, LCD screens, and the older CRT computer monitors. As a result, a bartender can press on a screen to ring up drinks on a busy night rather than type in a price, a nurse can input patient information with one hand. Truly, the possibilities with touch screen monitors are endless.
Touch screen monitors usually come in three varieties that enable it to recognize a person’s touch. These are resistive, capacitive and surface acoustic wave. The resistive type works by having two panels with a thin space between them. When the user presses the screen, the two panels touch at that point, and the exact coordinates are then registered with the computer.
A capacitive system runs a small electrical charge throughout the touch screen. When the user touches the chosen area, some of the electrical charge is distributed to the finger, lessening the charge at that location. The coordinates are again recorded and sent to the computer. This type of touch screen produces a clearer picture because it transmits more light and doesn’t require two panels.
Finally, the surface acoustic wave system is the best, and results in the clearest picture. Transducers are used to send electrical signals across the screen, and if a user touches the screen, they can determine where based on how the electrical signal is received from one transducer to the other.
Since the capacitive system must have a finger to absorb electricity, most non-living objects won’t register as a touch. Resistive and surface acoustic wave systems on the other hand react to just about any form of pressure. Each has its different advantages as a result, and manufacturers will only find new ways to make use of them.
Finally, although touch screens provide a natural interface for computer novices, they are unsatisfactory for most applications because the finger is such a relatively large object. It is impossible to point accurately to small areas of the screen. In addition, most users find touch screens tiring to the arms after long use.
Willson Peterson is computer expert and network engineer. He is the author of ‘Let’s resolve the frequent troubles of TFT LCD monitor ourselves’.
Click here ==> http://www.ebookarticle.com to visit his website.
Copyright 2005 Willson Peterson. This article may be reprinted if the resource box is left intact.
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October 28, 2008
Liberty, Justice, and High Def For All
The conversation subject of high definition is no longer segregated to the dark smokey rooms of the cultural elite, the same rooms where gas price conspiracies, global domination rituals, and secret handshakes are created. No friends, high definition is now available to bond and free, to all races and creeds, to rich and, well, semi-rich.
Pick Your Poison
HDMI and DVI are the two digital interfaces that are quickly becoming the prefered vessels of High Definition. Just as a quick recap…
DVI: Short for Digital Video Interface, came into fruition to convert analog signals into video signals to accomodate both analog and digital monitors. DVI-A is an analog signal, DVI-D is a digital signal, and DVI-I is an integrated analog and digital solution. This quickly became a popular interface because the integrity of the signal remains true through any transmission, unlike its analog grandfather, who loses little bits of data here and there because of too many treks through the snow as a kid.
HDMI: Short for High-Definition Multimedia Interface, this digital interface is perfectly suited for the consumer electronics market. It supports uncompressed high definition video plus multi-channel audio in a single cable, simplifying the install process for you and me. It does all this with a smaller connector than its DVI cousin.
Length Limits
Both DVI and HDMI signals begin to degrade in quality when sent over copper wire after about 5 meters. Although sometimes a well-made copper HDMI or DVI cable can send the signal further than that without corruptions visible by the naked eye, you will often encounter specks and glitter in the display, plus a host of other possible problems if the voltage level isn’t preserved and stable.
Below is some basic information about what is available for DVI Extension and HDMI extension.
Extension
So, you’ve sold the farm to buy your HDTV display and source boxes, but the picture has more specks and sparkles than tinkerbell. If its because of long runs of DVI or HDMI cables, there are solutions. Gefen, a leader in the industry, manufacturers perhaps the most respected and prolific digital extenders for both home and professional A/V.
There are two basic ways to extend HDMI and DVI. Extend over a CAT5 cable, or just get a booster (similar in many ways to a repeater).
Cat5 Extension
This style of digital video extension uses two little boxes: a receiver and a sender. By “little”, I mean a few inches by a few inches, by a few more inches. The sender sits near your source (such as a computer, a set-top box, a DVD player). An included cable connects your DVI or HDMI source to the sender. The sender sits near your video source and sends the signal long distances over a tidy and economic Cat5 cable. The receiver sits near the display and receives the signal that has travelled over long distances unscathed from video corruption. The receiver feeds the perfect image (with the resolution also preserved) to your display via your DVI or HDMI cable. The Cat5 Extension option is very attractive because Cat5 cables are very inexpensive and are neater than the fat (no matter how phat) video cables. I highly recommend Gefen products for their industrial strength, aesthetic attraction, and reliability in important video extension projects.
Boosters and Repeaters
Although not entirely identical, boosters and repeaters accomplish the same job and in a similar manner. Boosters and repeaters only require one box to sit at the end of a long run of DVI or HDMI cable. The unit simply corrects any signal corruption that has occurred over long runs of copper cable. This option is most appealing to those who already bought a long run of DVI or HDMI cable. Boosters and repeaters are also good for chaining multiple runs of cable together.
Cameron Postelwait works in business development at Sewell Direct.
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October 24, 2008
You are working at your computer and trying to print out important documents and all at once you find you are out of ink. Years ago that would have presented a big problem. Printers used ribbons or daisy wheels to print on paper. Let’s take a look at the evolution of printer ink cartridges.
In 1984 ink jet printers and printer cartridges were introduced. Printing documents was now easier and so was changing printer cartridges. After years of changing ribbons, adding toner ink to reservoirs within the computer.
The dot matrix method used a ribbon. The industry found new ways to make printing easier and more convenient. There is the drop on demand method where the ink squirts onto the paper through tiny nozzles. The amount of ink dropped the page is controlled by the software driver that controls which nozzle fires and when.
By 1990 ink jet print cartridges was widely accepted. Printer cartridges can now print in color as well as in black and white for document. Inkjet printer cartridges can print on just about any sized paper, on fabric and on film. Ink jet printers are used in a variety of settings worldwide and is a popular choice for printing.
Each brand of printer uses a specific type of cartridge. Ink jet cartridges are given an identification number and the models that can use this particular cartridge, is listed. There are a wide variety of cartridges available and you should check your printer’s manual to see exactly what cartridges are available to you.
If you are trying to save money, you can purchase refill kits that allow you to fill the cartridges yourself. Not everyone is a fan of these kits however, the quality of the printing isn’t as good, and in some cases the cartridges when re-installed can fail to operate.
You can get reconditioned and refilled cartridges from some retailers and sometimes from the manufacturer. Compatible cartridges are cartridges that are made according to the exact specs of the original manufacturer. The drawback here is that not every cartridge has a compatible one.
In choosing a printer check the type of cartridge it will use. You will need to determine if the cartridge is appropriate for the type of printing and the volume of printing you will be doing. You will have to do some research and you can find much of this information on the internet, through the manufacturer or through stores that deal in the particular printer you are looking at.
Discount ink cartridges are available online. All you have to do is type ink cartridges or printer cartridges into your search engine. Some sites offer amazing discounts. Again you are going to have to search for the deal that is best for you. Pay attention to the cartridge top when purchasing them. Check the sides of the box for a list of models the cartridge will work in.
There is a time line below that has some really interesting facts.
This would make a great list of answers for a trivia game. I cannot imagine the hard work that created the ink jet printer cartridge, as we know it. It is easy to understand why cartridges are expensive.
1452 - Gutenberg used oil-based ink, moveable type, and an old winepress to make the first printing press.
Martin Luther began the Protestant reformation making extensive use of the printing press.
1714 - The typewriter was born. Schematics that were done by Mills were discovered however, there is no proof that any typewriters were actually made.
1874 - Christopher Sholes, Samuel Soule, and Carlos Glidden made a keyboard that became known as the “qwerty” because of the first five keys on the top row of the keyboard.
1894 - Franz Wagner developed a typewriter that is very similar to the ones made today. He created a design that let the typists watch as they were typing. Previously, paper would go through a roller as you typed and you could not see what you typed until you were done.
1897 - Underwood (by John Underwood) was the prototypical typewriter of its day.
1939 - Charles Carlson developed electrography, which is the first dry writing technique developed in the United States.
1949 - Haloid Company began to commercially developed electrography for the first time.
1959 - Xerox 914 hit the market and forced other businesses to update their communication systems.
1969 - Xerox first introduced dry printing (laser printing) by Gary Starkweather.
1078 - Xerox put out the world’s first business laser printer the Xerox 9700. It copied documents at the speed of 120 ppm (pages per minute)
1979 - The IBM 3800 could print out 20,000 lines per minute.
1980’s - The use of toner cartridges became obsolete.
1984 - Hewlett-Packard released the first home-based desktop laser printer.
Martin Smith is a successful freelance writer providing advice for consumers on purchasing a variety of
Discount ink cartridges which includes
Cheap ink cartridge, if you have time drop by his site for some tips and information
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It’s most peoples worst computing nightmare. You wake up in the morning, flip on the computer, and it doesn’t boot. Sometimes the problem rears its ugly head as a horrific clacking noise. Other times it simply gives a read error.
At this point, most people panic. The first thing you wonder is whether or not the data is recoverable. There is no universal answer to this. In some cases, a simple scan with some data recovery software is all that it takes to retrieve the contents of the drive. In other cases, if you want it badly enough, it will take thousands of dollars and a shipment of the drive to a clean lab where they will pull the platters inside of the drive and access them that way.
Now you’re probably wondering if there’s a way to prevent this from happening. Well, you’re in luck. Getting a UPS (Uninterruptible Power Supply) is the very best and most effective way to prevent your data from pulling a disappearing act.
While it is not fool-proof, having something that regulates the electricity flowing into your computer can reduce the risk of a drive failure by up to 70%. This figure goes up to around 90% if the computer is being used while in an electrical storm. (My computer repair business always gets a little boost after a thunderstorm, courtesy of the lightning wreaking havoc on people’s hard drives.)
Don’t just run out and get any UPS. You want to get an intelligent one. The ‘intelligent’ UPS will regulate the power without having to hit the battery every time the voltage takes a dip which greatly improves battery longevity. They also include options to hook the power supply up to your computer via a serial or USB port so you can monitor what the power is doing. This also gives the option to allow for a soft shut-down if the power goes out and you are away from your desk.
You can get an Uninterruptible Power Supply at most computer stores. Best Buy carries a fairly wide selection of them.
As for brands, I’ve personally used APC with much success. Opti-UPS is another excellent brand. In fact, I have an Opti that is 6 years old and still works fine, although the batteries now have no life to them. (That’s to be expected. Rechargeable batteries only last so long)
Now that you know of the importance of a UPS I would strongly encourage you to invest in one. It is far better to spend $100 now on some preventative maintenance than having to spend much more later on data recovery.
Kevin Souter is a full time computer technician. He also operates some free spyware removal and computer repair websites.
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October 20, 2008
Most of the talk going on in the computer processor industry is revolving around dual core processors. But what advantages do they actually give and is it worth it in terms of price?
All processors have a core. A processor contains some memory, often referred to as cache, either L1, L2 or L3, depending on how close it is to the core, and the core itself, as well as a few other essentials. The core is the “brain” part, it performs all the big calculations that are needed for the various things a computer does.
Computer cores have been increasing in speed, and increasingly quickly. Manufacturers were in a race to have the chip with the fastest speed, measured in GHz. One surprise is that despite these increases in clock speed, the actual speed of programs didn’t increase proportionately.
As modern programs make much heavier use of other computer parts like memory, and there are often many running at the same time, another approach was needed.
Dual core processors were the answer.
By putting two “brain” parts into the processor, you can run two programs on two cores, without having to share it between them. The effect of this is that when running two or more programs, the processor can now handle much more as a whole.
The part about them that might disappoint is gaming.
Unlike the multitasking environment that is usual for a computer either at home or at the office, games rely on the brute force of a powerful processor to help them along. So far there is no technology to take advantage of the two processors, like the ability to split its tasks over two cores. Most gaming has not improved with this new technology.
As with processors in the past the mainstream of dual core processors is dominated by the two big guys, Intel and AMD.
Intel offers two processors in its range, same processor, just different speeds. The lower priced of the Pentium D processors comes in at around $250. This price is reasonable considering how much you would pay for the top of the line single core processor.
The Pentium D is based on the same core as it’s single core counterparts, just two of them inside. Its boost in performance is quite notable, and makes it presence felt in the multitasking environment.
The AMD Athlon X2 is AMD’s offering in the dual core market. Unlike the Pentium D its lowest priced model comes in at a staggering $400. It’s not expensive compared to processors like its FX series, which are over $1000, but in comparison to Intel it’s expensive.
It too is based on the same core as its single core cousins and also offers the same performance increases.
The price of the AMD is surprising. From a company that became renowned for it’s low cost, high performance processors this is quite a blow. Even the upper model of the Pentium Ds comes in at less that AMD’s cheapest model.
The price might be justified if the AMD actually gave a significant performance boost, but it doesn’t.
For the first time in a long time, I think I would be willing to switch back to an Intel processor. Although my preference is not for dual core, if I had or needed to switch I would certainly go straight for the Pentium D.
And finally, how do they compare to their now out of date traditional processors?
Considering how powerful processors have become I would still not make the switch. Dual core has not been around long enough to produce low cost, slightly out of date models. The power of the AMD Athlon 64 3000+ more than does it for my computing needs, and that’s where I would stay for now.
So for those who are looking for the next cool thing for their desktop computer and price is not a huge issue, this would be your best choice, but go for the lower end Pentium D.
Peter Stewart is a computer enthusiast, his interest in computers and focus on practicle down to earth advice inspired his two websites. http://www.computer-buying-guide.com - Practical buying tips http://www.computer-reviews.net - Fair and honest reviews and opinions
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I have purchased almost every hard drive cooling device on the market, some costing as much as $50 or more. I have systems that place fans in front of the drive that suck air from the outside, and fans that mount underneath. The problem with these setups are that they tend to be expensive, the airflow tends to be quite low, and in general they just don’t cool down the drives by more than 1 - 5 degrees. I even own one that claims an 80cfm airflow. But alas I was never satisfied with any of these cooling methods.
For over a year now I have been able to achieve a 10 - 15 degree Celsius temperature drop on my hard drives simply by using a 10 cent bracket from a local hardware store.
Image: http://cheapbooks.name/pics/DSC00823.JPG
- 1/2″ bracket
- 80mm fan
- 3.5″ hard drive
I use 3 hard drives in every one of my 20 servers, 2 running as a RAID-1 and the third as a spare in case the raid goes down. I use a mounted cooling fan blowing directly onto the circuit board of every drive, using an 80mm fan, with the air blowing in the direction of the drive surface. Any speed fan will have a dramatic affect on cooling. Please note that in some cases I suspected that the drive temperature was not being reported properly, as some drives showed no change in temperature via software but were clearly cooler to the touch.
Simply mount a standard 1/2″ bracket available from your local hardware store. The bracket must fit one machine screw to mount to the rear of the hard drive, and it must also fit a screw capable of mounting the fan. I have been able to do it using the standard screws although you may need a matching nut & bolt for your fan depending on your bracket.
Before removing your drive and fan, make sure you get a test reading of the temperature reported by your hard drive, if your drive supports it.
Image: http://cheapbooks.name/pics/DSC00822.JPG
Mount the fan to the bracket as shown above. Make sure you mount it with the airflow arrow directed to the drive. Also ensure that the power cable for the fan is mounted at the back end of your setup. A second bracket can optionally be used on the other side of the fan, but keep in mind that in some cases you may have a slight warping effect on your fan if the holes do not line up accurately enough.
Image: http://cheapbooks.name/pics/DSC00820.JPG
After mounting the bracket to the fan, mount it to one of the rear screw holes on the drive. Mount it on the side facing your open case panel if you want to be able to replace the fan without removing the drive.
Image: http://cheapbooks.name/pics/DSC00818.JPG
Connect all the power cables and take a sampling of your temperature sensor on your hard drive, using tools such as SMART software. You should notice a dramatic change in temperature such that other cooling methods will no longer be necessary.
Copyright 2005 CheapBooks.com. All Rights Reserved.
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October 19, 2008
The marital aid market has seen a big increase in trade since the sixties. This is part of the sexual revolution and a hefty benefit to mankind. Sex aids are an incredible way to increase passion into your sex life, sexy aids can often help you come to orgasm and sex toys consistently put a grin on your face. Feels like the real thing but better - Vibrating Vaginas.
Whichever fabulous marital aid you decide to get this Christmas let your wants be your guide. If you are into bondage play then go and purchase yourself a fetish mask. if you are into romantic sex then go and purchase yourself some feathers. Keep your mind open and see where it guides you.
The most popular marital aids on the market have got to be the vibrating marital toys. The above mentioned fabulous marital aids have been everywhere for decades and you have presumably seen a vibrator in your local sex retailer. Vibrating sex aids come in a variety of sizes and colours, you can get them in a small size for your handbag right up to 13 inches. The wonder of a vibrator is the mind-blowing vibration that it gives off, this vibration is the prime source of pleasure for girls and might well usually be changed in intensity to suit the girl. Marital aids are super.
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